Jaipur

The Pink City

It a bustling capital city and a business centre with all the trapping of modern metropolis but yet flavoured strongly with an age-old charm that never fails to surprise a traveller. The old Jaipur painted in Pink can grip any visitor with admiration. Stunning backdrop of ancient forts Nahargarh, Amer, Jagarh and Moti Dungri are dramatic testimonials of the bygone era and a reminder of their lingering romance. Jaipur is named after its founder the warrior and astronomer sovereign Sawai Jai Singh II (ruled 1688 to 1744). The decision to move out of his hilltop capital Amer was also compelled by reasons of growing population and paucity of water. Moreover in the early seventh century the power of the great Mughals was dwindling with its aging Monarch Aurangzeb and after several centuries of invasions the north was now quite and the wealth of the kingdom had become greater than before. Seizing upon this opportune time Jai Singh planned his new capital in the planes. Jaipur is a corroborative effort of Sawai Jai Singh's strong grounding in sciences and astrology and a Bengali architect Vidyadhar with a strong instinct for planning.

The fort has 4 sections; each with the premises and one has to climb up through the imposing stairway or else the broad aisle, where one can ride on the elephant back for royal feel. The main gate Surajpol that leads to the Jaleb chowk, which is the main courtyard from where one can walk up the stairway, that leads to the palace. Jaleb Chowk was also the area where returning armies were welcome and they would display their war earnings to the population at large. Before you enter the palace just towards the right is a sleep aisle and a narrow staircase reaching up to Kali Temple also called Shila Devi Temple famous for its mysterious history and the huge silver lions. It is a gorgeous temple featuring silver doors with raised relief. According to a legend, Maharaja Man Singh I had worshiped the Goddess for a victory over the rulers of Bengal. The Goddess appeared in the Maharaja's dream and ordered him to recover her statue lying under sea near Jessore (now in Bangladesh) and install it in a befitting Temple. True enough, after subjugating the enemies the Maharaja recovered the statute from the bed of the sea. The temple is called after Shila Devi, "shila" meaning stone slab. Like all temples this too has an image of Ganesha on the doorway, but carved from a single piece of coral.

Getting back from the temple the main stairways lead to the second courtyard of the fort. Here situated is the imposing Diwan-I-Aam, the hall of public audiences where the Maharaja received the populace and their petitions. This is a pavilion of double row of columns each capped by an elephant shape. There is a lattice gallery also. Behind the exquisite and fabulous Ganesh Pol, "pol" meaning gate are located in the residential apartments of the Maharaja. The Jai Mandir, the Hall of Victory is famous for its inlaid panel and dazzling mirror ceiling. Much of it had deteriorated with neglect and is under restoration.

On the other side is Sukh Niwas, the residence of pleasure or pleasurable residence. The palace has an ivory inlaid sandalwood door. A channeled laid for flow of water is an inventive system of cooling. The water flowing from the channel wasn't wasted as it was allowed to flow in the garden. From there you can also take pleasure in viewing of the fort rampart and its reflection in the Moata Lake.The Zenana or the palace of the women are in the forth courtyard. The rooms are though connected through a common corridor are cleverly designed to give each room privacy.

City Palace : Located in the heart of the walled city, The City Palace Complex gives you an idea about the farsightedness of the founder of Jaipur Sawai Jai Singh. He left behind a legacy of some of the most imposing and magnificent architecture, art and craft structure in the city. Sawai Jai Singh built its many buildings but some of some of the structures were also built by later rulers and some of them are even dated in the in the twentieth century too. The palace is a blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture and the royal family still lives in a part of the palace. On entering the complex and before the palace proper lies the Mubarak Mahal, the palace of welcome or reception. Sawai Madho Singh built the palace in the nineteenth century. It was used as a reception centre for the visiting personage. The building now forms the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum and on display here are a wide array of royal costumes, some very exquisite and precious Pashmina (Kashmiri) Shawls, Benaras silk saris, Sanganeri prints and folk embroidery. An unusual display is that of voluminous clothes worn by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I (ruled 1750-68).

The Maharani's Palace, the palace of the Queen paradoxically puts a display of the Rajput weaponry. The inestimable collections of weapons date back to even 15th century and are in a remarkable state of preservation. Remarkable amongst them is scissor-action dagger. This deadly weapon when thrust in bodies the handles were release to spread the blades. The dagger was then withdrawn tearing limb from limb of the body of the hapless victim into certain fatality. Other exhibits include protective chain armours, pistols, jewelled and ivory handled swords, a belt sword, small and assorted cannons, guns, poison tipped blades and gun powder pouches. The frescos on the ceiling are amazing and well preserved. The art gallery is located in the Diwan-I-Aam, which literally mean the Hall of public audience. The exhibits here included some very precious and ancient handwritten original manuscripts of Hindu scriptures. Particularly intriguing in miniature copies of Bhagwat Gita made in this manner so that it can be concealed out of sight of Emperor Aurangzebs onslaught on Hindu scriptures. Some very delicate miniature paintings in Rajasthani, Mughal and Persian schools on various themes including the Ramayana are very engrossing displays. Visitors must also take a good at preserved painted ceilings. Also on display are elephant saddles called haudha.

Between the armoury museum and the art gallery is the Diwan-E-Khas meaning hall of private or selective audience. This is a marble paved pavilion and puts on display the world largest sterling silver object two gigantic silver vessels. These vessels were made for Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II, who took in along with him filled with water from River Ganga for drinking. As a devout Hindu the Maharaja did not wish to risk polluted English waters. The ceiling also has large chandeliers, which are mostly protected by dust covers and opened only of festive occasions. The Guinness Book of Records accounts it has the biggest silver objects in the world. The Chandra Mahal Palace is still occupied by the royal family but visitors can visit the ground floor where some exhibits are on display. However the visit here is worthwhile for the exquisite Peacock in the courtyard outside. The present day royal family that takes charge of the museum has done exceptionally well in preserving this legacy in fine state maintenance and presentation. A visits to the palace is enlightening one for its extraordinary occurrence.

Hawa Mahal : Poet king Sawai Pratap Singh built this palace of winds. This is the most easily recalled landmarks of Jaipur and is also its icon. Located in the city Palace it is best viewed from the outside for the palace is really a facade. This five-storey building overlooking the busy bazaar street is a stunning example of Rajput architecture and artistry with its pink delicately honeycombed 953 sandstone windows known as 'jharokhas'. It was originally built for the ladies of the royal household to watch everyday life and processions in the city from their veiled comfort. Most people come here to get a view of the facade but they can also climb to the top for a wonderful view from the latticed windows. There is also a small archaeological museum there.

Nahargarh Fort : Nahargarh Fort is located on the sheer rugged ridge of Aravali Hills and it forms an impressive northern backdrop of Jaipur. It looks most classy when floodlit at night. The fort overlooks the city and presents a glittering view of the city lights. It was built in 1734 and extended in 1868. Nahargarh meaning abode of the tigers was built by Jai Singh to bolster the defence of Amber. The legend also have it that it was named Nahargarh after Nahar Singh a prince whose spirit would destroy the construction and not allow its progress further. So after a tantrik prayer to the spirit it agreed to leave on condition that the fort is named after him. The Madhavendra Bhawan, built by Sawai Ram Singh II has uniquely a cluster of 12 identical suits for queens and at the head is a suit for the king himself. The rooms are linked by corridors and retain some delicate frescos as well as toilets and kitchen hearths. It was used by members of the royal family for excursion in summers and is now even a favoured picnic spot.

Jantar Mantar : Across the road from the palaces is the famous JANTAR MANTAR one of the five observatories in India . Built by Sawai Jai Singh, this is one of the largest and the best preserved. A passionate hobby of the king in the field of Astronomy, numerology, insighted him to execute this observatory and with the help of skilled labourers, they managed to create a collection of complex astronomical instruments chiselled out of stone and most of which continues to provide accurate information to this day. The most striking instrument is the Brihat Samrat yantra Sundial, an imposing yellow edifice to the far right of the observatory complex which has a 27m high gnomon arm set at an angle of 27degree.The shadow this casts moves up to 4m in an hour, and aids in the calculation of local and meridian pass time and various attributes of the heavenly bodies, including declination the angular distance of a heavenly body from the celestial equator and altitude.

This highlight of the observatory has made it a centre of attraction for the tourist visiting Jaipur.

Government Central Museum : One of the oldest and the most famous Museum is the Government Central Museum or Albert museum was constructed under the supervision of a British Army officer, Lt. Swinton Jacob in the year 1876. Maharaja Ram Singh, who was then the king of Jaipur, wanted this building to be used as the town hall but his successor Madho Singh decided to convert the building to an art museum. It is located in the Ramnivas Gardens and is the oldest museum in Jaipur. The Central Museum not only houses many rarities and beautiful objects but its own building is also a sight to behold. The Museum is in the Albert Hall and is inspired by the Indo-Sarcenic style of architecture, which uses the best features of both styles of building. It has many pillars, courtyards and arches that give it a very traditional yet elegant look.

The upper floor/level of the Museum mainly has portraits of royalty and Jaipur Maharajas. That does not in the least mean that the museum only showcases the royal and imperial relics, but it represent "all of Jaipur". It has an extensive collection of jewelry, metalwork and sculpture. There are also many objects made of brass, which display the skills of the expert hands that have hammered and chiseled them to perfection. The Central Museum also has a huge collection of miniature paintings from the Udaipur, Jaipur, Bundi, Kota and Kishangarh schools of painting. There are also fine specimens of woodwork, metal objects and other arts & crafts. One can also see the old traditional ceremonial dresses of the Kings and the royal families besides a whole lot of pottery objects, painting and sculptures.

Bairath : Earlier known as Viratnagar, Bairath lies 169 kms. south-west of Delhi and 66 kms. north of Jaipur. The history of Bairath dates back to ancient times. Virat, the capital of Matsya, is considered to be the abode of King Virata. It is said that the Pandavas spent one year of their exile here. Excavations reveal that Bairath formed a part of the Mauryan empire and flourished as a Buddhist establishment from 3rd century B.C. to 1st century A.D.

Galta : Galta is a pretty little pilgrim spot located just beyond Sisodia Rani-ka Bagh on Agra Road at a distance of 10 km. from Jaipur. This is the sacred spot where one sage Galav is supposed to have lived and meditated. As such the place is visited mainly for its temples. Just before you enter Galta, you will come across the aesthetic Balaji ka Mandir. It is a triple-storied building of pink stone, looking more like a palatial haveli (mansion). The Temple of Galtaji, which lies in a picturesque gorge amid low hills, has a huge complex. This one is also built of pink stone, with a profusion of pavilions having rounded roofs. The walls and pillars have exquisite carvings and paintings. The whole complex is so beautiful that it is more of a visual treat than a place for worship. The temple, however, has a large daily attendance. There are also some springs and natural reservoirs (kunds) around the Galta Temple, where the devout take holy dips. They believe that by doing so, they can cleanse themselves of their worldly sins! Even in the cold of mid-January, devotees throng to these kunds for their ritual dip on Makar Sankranti, an important festival of the Hindus (see Religion of India for more on Makar Sankranti). The holiest one of these is the Galta Kund, believed never to become dry. All the seven tanks, including the Galta Kund, are fed by a spring emanating from the Gaumukh, a rock carved in the shape of a cow's head.

The 18th century Surya Temple stands on top of the highest peak here. It was built by Rao Kriparam, a courtier of Sawai Jai Singh II. There are fine views from here of the surrounding plains and the city of Jaipur beyond. The temple had some beautiful frescoes, but sadly heavy rains in 1991 washed many away. The restored ones are hardly of any match to the originals. If you're bored with temples, take a walk among the old style havelis (mansions) nearby. Though rather dilapidated, they have delicately carved balconies and painted ceilings.

Samode : Nathawat family (hailing from chomu) that served as the Prime Ministers of the Jaipur Royal Court is located some 40km from Jaipur and 264 km from Delhi in the range of Aravali. This magnificent fort is as charming and romantic in itself, and exhibits grandeur, good taste, class and elegance. The way to the fort's main entrance is through the inside of the village, which can be covered from the highway by a camel safari, with the locals welcoming the guests with smiles and thrilling expressions. The inside of the fort reflects expressions of the medieval architecture that is renovated a bit for the oriental formality. The open courtyards in the centre has separate wings on the sides that extends to 43 spacious rooms & suites having private balconies and views. The walls are in warm colours to highlight the intricate marble work, the antiques and the colourful art with traditional artefacts. The Durbar hall of Samode Palace is one of the most beautifully painted chambers with glass & minakari work and the same goes for the private restricted spaces- meant for the "zannanis", women of the family.

Sanganer : Sanganer is located 16 Kms from Jaipur. It is also known for exquisite Jain temples. Moreover, it is an important centre for crafts and hand-printed textiles that is internationally famous.The most beautiful temple in Sanganer is the ancient Shri Digamber Jain temple. The temple has fine carvings as those of the magnificent Dilwara temples of Mount Abu. Built in various phases with sky-high shikharas (spires), the temple represents an old style of architecture. The last phase was probably built in the 10th century. The beautiful nij-mandir (inner temple) is a stone shrine with three pinnacles. In the centre is an idol of Parshwanath with 7 serpent hoods. All around it, are carvings of lotuses, creepers and elephants pouring water from pitchers held in their trunks. But the main idol is that of Adinath, installed in the shrine behind this. The town is most famous for its hand paper and mostly screen-printed fabric. The fabric is popular for small floral designs. A wide variety of material for apparels, furnishing and curtaining is available. Some of the traditional designs were produced in the patronage of the royal family. It is a beautiful sight to see brightly colour fabric drying out in the sun near the river.

Sawai Jai Singh II set up a paper business in Sanganer on the outskirts of Jaipur. It is said that in the 16th century, the ruler of Amber, Raja Man Singh, brought Kagzis to Sanganer (situated on the bank of Saraswati River, where abundant clear water was available). The town emerged as one of the biggest paper making centres in northern India. In between, however the industry did get a setback, but after independence, the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) included the handmade paper in its agenda for promotion of crafts. It is famous for kagazi mohulla (handmade paper) and block printing and is the world's largest centre of hand-made paper. Sanganer is blessed with water and open spaces, essential for papermaking. From here the Kagzis enjoyed patronage of the royal court of Sawai Man Singh and his successors. Today there are about 10 hand-made paper industries in Sanganer, all owned by Kagzis. Of these the largest is Salim Kagzi's Handmade Paper and Board Industries. All Sanganer paper makers are the largest producers of hand-made paper in the world. The airport of Jaipur is also located in Sanganer.

Vidyadhar's Garden : Located near the Sisodia Gardens,it is a beautiful vineyard, which unfolds itself in the valley. It is named after Vidyadhar Bhatacharjee the architect of Jaipur.

Gaitor: It is the final resting place of the Maharajas of Jaipur and is located just off the Jaipur - Amber Road. Situated in a narrow valley the cenotaphs of the former Maharajas are chhatris made in typical Rajput architecture. The chhatri of Sawai Jai Singh II is of special mention for its carvings that exaggerate it.

Birla Mandir : Birla Mandir or the Lakshmi - Narayan Temple, situated just below the Moti Dungari. This is a modern temple built of white marble on top of a hill, dominating the skyline of south Jaipur. The Birlas (industrialists who have also built several temples in India) built this temple. The temple has been constructed in white marble and has three domes, each portraying the different approaches to religion. The presiding deities here are Vishnu (One of the Hindu Trilogy Gods) called Narayan and his consort Lakshmi Goddess of wealth and good fortune. The temple is built is white in marble and exterior has carved sculptures of various mythological themes and images of saints. The interior has large panel in marble of mythological proceedings. The images of the deities are placed in the sanctum sanctorum. Built on raised ground, it is surrounded by large lush green gardens.

Jaigarh Fort : The Jaigarh fort is the most spectacular of the three-hilltop forts that overlook Jaipur. In Mughal times, the Jaipur region was a major weapon-producing centre for the Mughal and Rajput rulers, several of which are on display in the fort's museum. It is one of the few military structures of medieval India preserved almost intact, containing palaces, a granary, a well-planned cannon foundry, several temples, a tall tower and a giant mounted cannon-the Jai Ban (Jaivan) which is the largest cannon in the world. Jaigarh Fort is also known as the fort of victory. The display includes a collection of canons, many of which are exquisitely decorated and were used in the Mughal campaigns led by the Rajput King, Raja Man Singh. Of the Jaipur's three forts, Jaigarh is perhaps the most motivating. It does not have those delicate structures or palaces like that of Amber but if you want a quick look at a hard-core fortress, this is it. Jaigarh means `Victory Fort' and was built between the 15th and the 18th century, and stands 15 km from Jaipur, amidst rock-strewn, thorn-scrub covered hills, its forbidding stone ramparts are visible from the Jaipur town. A steep road goes up to the main gate, the Dungar Darwaza, from where the view is stupendous.

It was the royal treasury for several years. It was one of the few ancient Indian military structures to be kept intact through the ages. There are passageways among the palaces and you can see a collection of coins and puppets. This fort is open to public since a few years only. It was sealed for seven years, due to a rumour, that an enormous treasure in gold was buried, in the fort area. The government ransacked the fort, emptied the reservoirs of water but found nothing. Jaigarh was once responsible for the security of both Jaipur and Amber, is a huge moated fort and contains all the accoutrements of a full-fledged citadel. 1 or 2 hours are usually enough to explore it- don't bother taking a guide; there isn't much use for one, and sections like the armoury and the museum have adequate signs.

Sisodia Garden : Sawai Jai Singh built it in 1728. The garden is laid in Mughal style and it depicts the legends of Radha and Krishna. The garden is located 8 kms from Jaipur - Agra road. It consists of tiered multi-level gardens with fountains, watercourses and painted pavilions. Sawai Jai Singh built it for his Sisodia Queen from Udaipur. The palace house has several galleries, pavilions and beautiful murals depicting scenes from the life of lord Krishna.

Birla Planetarium : The Birla Planetarium is at the BM Birla Science & Technology Center, near Statue Circle. The Planetarium offers unique audio-visual educational and entertainment with its modern computerised projections system.

Sariska Tiger Reserve : This park is situated only 200 km from Delhi and 107 kms from Jaipur. Although larger than Ranthambor, it is less commercialised and has less tigers but a similar topography. It covers an area of 800 sq km in total, with a core area of approximately 500 sq km. The Northern Aravali Hills dominate the skyline with their mixture of sharp cliffs and long narrow valleys. The area was declared a sanctuary in 1955 and became a National Park in 1979. The landscape of Sariska comprises of hills and narrow valleys of the Aravali hill range. The topography of Sariska supports scrub-thorn arid forests, dry deciduous forests, rocks and grasses. The broad range of wildlife here is a wonderful example of ecological adoption and tolerance, for the climate here is variable as well as erratic. It is located in the contemporary Alwar district and is the legacy of the Maharajas of Alwar. Pavilions and Temples within Sariska are ruins that hint at past riches and glory. The nearby Kankwadi Fort has a long and turbulent history.

In morning and evening, wildlife in Sariska heads towards the many water holes, which litter the park, thus providing the guests with their best chance of viewing game. At some of these watering holes it is possible to book hides which are situated in prime spots for wildlife viewing. The park is home to numerous carnivores including Leopard, Wild Dog, Jungle Cat, Civets Hyena, Jackal, and Tiger. These feed on species such as Sambar, Chital, Nilgai, Chausingha, Wild Boar and Langur. Sariska is also well known for its large population of Rhesus Monkeys, which are found around Talvriksh.

The avian world is also well represented with peafowl, grey partridge, bush quail, sand grouse, tree pie, golden backed woodpecker, crested serpent eagle and The great indian gorned owl. The park is open almost whole year-round, but for wildlife viewing and your comfort it is best to visit from October to April. Safaris are provided by jeep.